the origin of the grapefruit. a bajan story

The grapefruit is the first citrus fruit to originate in the Americas— on the little island of Barbados in the southeastern Caribbean, known by many as the land of Rihanna.
It is said that grapefruit emerged as a chance seedling— an accidental cross between the Jamaican sweet orange and the Indonesian pomelo fruit which was introduced to the region in 1683 by Captain Philip Chaddock. This would result in pomelo being commonly referred to as shaddock, and the words grapefruit and shaddock being used interchangeably by many Caribbean people.
It is easy to see why grapefruit was named “Forbidden Fruit” by the early English colonists. Having first been spotted in the lush, underground forests of Welchman Hall Gulley in the center of Barbados, it is said that when they discovered the citrus fruit growing there, they wondered if they had ventured into Eden of the bible.
Following its discovery, the novel fruit would grow rapidly in popularity.
There are several academic and cultural accounts of “forbidden fruit” that were recorded in Barbados during the 18th century. The earliest published record is said to have been in the book, “The Natural History of Barbados,” written in 1750 by Reverend Griffith Hughes, a natural historian and rector of the parish of St. Lucy, while another account was recorded by George Washington in the journal that he kept during his visit to Barbados, between 1750 and 1751, in which he described the experience of tasting the fruit at a local dinner party.
The first published record of the word “grapefruit” would appear in the 1837 book, Flora of Jamaica. It is thought that the fruit received this name because it grows in clusters that resemble grapes.
More than three centuries following the birth of the first forbidden fruit in the parish of St. Thomas, grapefruits continue to feature in Barbadian beverages and cocktails and in culinary creations and naturopathic applications.
Bajans are well aware of the positive metabolic effects and immune boosting benefits of the fruit and frequently drink the fresh juice when they are fighting the cold or flu, making sure to retain as much of the rind as possible, given the high concentration of bioflavonoids and other anti-cancer agents located there.
Tangy, juicy and fragrant— grapefruits are recognized and valued for their culinary applications. In cooking, the citrus fruit pairs well with fish or pork and is frequently used in dressings or marinades. The juice is sometimes used in ice creams and sorbets, while the peel can be candied and used in desserts. The fruit is often juiced for a refreshing fresh juice, or it is used in cocktails.
Trudiann Branker, the first female master blender of Barbados’ Mount Gay Rum— the world’s oldest brand of rum— uses Barbados grapefruit as a key ingredient in cocktails such as the “Forbidden Cooler” and “Speightstown Punch” both of which were featured in British Vogue.
The latter cocktail, which is named after a town in the parish of St. Peter, is made of Mount Gay Black Barrel rum, fresh grapefruit juice, ginger syrup and mint tea, and is garnished with a ginger slice, mint leaves, and a grapefruit slice.
Clayton’s Kola Tonic is a bitter sweet tonic made locally with orange, kola nuts and hops, is widely enjoyed on-island. A variety of cocktails are made using Clayton’s and grapefruit, including Clayton’s Pink Lady Grapefruit Cocktail, which consists of fresh pink grapefruit juice, fresh lemon juice, Claytons Kola Tonic, orange liqueur, gin and a grapefruit wedge to garnish, and Clayton’s Grapefruit Sunrise, which is made of Claytons Kola Tonic, grapefruit juice, grenadine and cinnamon.
Claytons Kola Bitters is also combined with honey in a salad dressing for a zesty and refreshing citrus salad featuring grapefruit.
At restaurants across the island, grapefruits are often used in salads, raw fish dishes or in marinades and dressings. Tapas’ Restaurant’s Tuna Tartare, contains raw tuna with orange zest, grapefruit citronette and tomato salsa, while Cafe Luna’s mixed local organic greens are dressed with a grapefruit vinaigrette.
Chef Dario Callender, CEO of Well Catered, a Barbados-based luxury private chef, catering and culinary consulting company, says that, “Apart from the numerous health benefits, grapefruit is one of the most versatile and bold citrus flavors.”
One of Callendar’s favorite recipes with the fruit is his Grapefruit & Orange ceviche with Avocado and Plantain Chips.
Barbados-based plant based Chef and wellness gastronomy consultant, Manuela Scalini enjoys using grapefruit in both savory dishes, such as her Grapefruit Avocado Tartare, or in simple deserts such as grapefruit ice cream.
Scalini’s grapefruit avocado salad is made with slow roasted beets and grilled fennel and served over a baby mesclun mix and microgreens salad. The salad is then topped with caramelized red onions, toasted pumpkin and sunflower seeds, and drizzled with a creamy tarragon and apple cider dressing (made with zucchini, yellow peppers, olive oil, tarragon, mustard seeds, lemon and ACV).
As a zero-waste chef, Scalini is sure to make use of all parts of the grapefruit. She says that after preparing meals that require grapefruit, she uses the peel as an odor remover throughout her house. She also mixes the juice of grapefruit with vinegar for household cleaning purposes.
In addition to meals, beverages, and household uses, grapefruit can be found in local snacks, condiments and confections, and is used in oils, fragrances, and cosmetics.
In January 2023, local hand crafted ice cream and cake company, Little Bits released its highly acclaimed limited edition grapefruit sorbet. Also well received was boutique artisanal chocolatier, Green Monkey Chocolatiers’ Blushing Grapefruit Bears gummies which it has described as “the perfect balance of sweet and tart flavours of a ripe and juicy grapefruit.”
St. Lucy Botanists, a Barbados-based natural perfumer, has developed a number of products that pay homage to the famous Barbados grapefruit. Founder, Kathryn Walters Grisoni’s Grandiflorum compact solid perfume, made of natural beeswax and jojoba oil features notes of cold pressed pink grapefruit, while her Irie essential oil features grapefruit, bergamot and orange. St. Lucy Botanist’s Rind candles carry the scent of fresh and effervescent grapefruit and orange rind, with grapefruit infused oil which Grisoni says “has mood enhancing properties known to reduce stress and fatigue.”
Grapefruit undoubtedly holds a very special historic and cultural place in the heart of Barbados and its people. But despite its plethora of uses and extensive consumption, the country has not done as much as it could to capitalize on the fact that it is the birthplace of a fruit that is expected to have a market value of close to $12 billion by 2027.
I have always wondered why the Barbados tourism industry hasn’t made grapefruit more central to the country’s local tourism product— creating more grapefruit themed products, events and gastronomic experiences.
Forbidden fruit-themed cottage industries, export products, signature juices and cocktails, cosmetics, natural medicinals, household products, festivals and experiences, cookbooks, treats, specialty dishes, and restaurant experiences will hopefully be a part of Barbados’ not-too-distant future. (Source: Forbes, March 20, 2023)

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