​A Dish of Morocoy Liver.

Author : Angelo Bissessarsingh
Land tortoises (Testudo tabulate), locally known as morocoys once abounded in Trinidad. Not to be confused with the more common red-eared terrapin or ‘galap’ (Trachemys scripta elegans), Morocoys are wholly terrestrial and generally occurred in areas with dry scrubland and deciduous forest. The Amerindian tribes of the North, being descended from Kalinago or Island Carib peoples despised turtle meat as they believed it made one slow and sluggish. In the south however, the Arawakan speaking peoples did consume the morocoy since bones and carapaces (shells) have been discovered in their middens, albeit in small numbers, at Cedros and Erin. The village of Tortuga in the Montserrat Hills was so named because of the large numbers of these animals which could be found there. The real danger to these placid reptiles however, came in the wake of the influx of French settlers who began to arrive in the island after the Cedula of Population in 1783. As would be typical of the gourmands of Bordeaux and the Loire Valley, these new immigrants soon found ways of preparing local game and fish to their tastes. The tables of the French Creoles were set with local meats that were treated to the flair of their Gallic heritage. In this way, many species were almost exterminated. The large pigeon known as the Ramier was an early victim and in one description of a dinner given in the 1850s at Cedros, the wooden trestle table was graced with a small mountain of roasted Ramiers, intended to represent a mud volcano on the estate.
Salmi of Morocoy liver was a runaway favourite since the animals could be easily caught and fattened on choice fruits for a banquet. The salmi was prepared by lightly braising the liver of the slaughtered morocoy in a pan allowing the fat content to be removed, and then stewing it in a consommé made from Spanish wine, cayenne pepper, ginger and thyme which was prepared separately and poured hot over the fried liver which being deprived of its fat content, would absorb the essences of the broth. Salmi of Morocoy liver was of widespread popularity, and resulted in the decimation of the species locally. In order to sate the appetites of the French Creoles, traders imported turtles from Venezuela where they were plentiful and sold them live in local markets. As recently as the 1920s, this famous dish was being served on fine china in the best homes across the island where at least on the East Coast (Manzanilla-Mayaro) , potted manatee brains on toast was also an entrée. The following is an account of the morocoy written in 1882:

“Numerous as reptiles are in Trinidad, a few only will be mentioned as deserving notice, either on account of their utility, or of their venomous characteristics. The morocoy and galapa live on soft plants, fruits, and insects ; the morocoy seems to be particularly partial to the wild-plum, which it swallows entire; during the ripening season, several of them may be met with under one tree. Being very slow in their movements, the morocoy and galapa are easily caught ; if near a pond or river, however, the galapa at once dives and escapes under water. Dogs often detect the morocoy by barking at it ; also when coupling, they emit a peculiar grunt which likewise serves to discover them. Besides the (sea) turtle, both the land and fresh-water tortoises are eaten, and when in good season and condition are not to be despised ; the liver of the morocoy is as delicate, or even much richer and choicer than the fuie gras ; it requires the condiments of lime juice, salt, and pepper, and must be dressed in the frying-pan. Morocoys are sometimes kept in pens, and fattened upon ripe plantains, guavas, &c., for the table. By far the greater number of sea and land tortoises exposed for sale in our markets, come from the Main.”
Weekend excursions down the islands which were the pleasure of the upper classes of Port of Spain also caused some inroads on the turtle population. Refrigeration had not yet come to the resort homes on Monos and Gasparee in the 19th century so most food had to be taken alive, such as chickens and turkeys. More often than not, a land tortoise kicking helplessly while lying on its back went along for the ride as well. Though the days of the salmis have passed, this slow reptile’ population is yet to recover to a level anywhere near what it was a couple centuries ago.